The Feeding of Native America: Then & Now
There’s no surprise in learning that the food history of Native American tribes reflects their deep connection to the land. But there’s much more to it than the fact that idigineous history was a time long before corner grocery stores.
Through centuries of close relationship to local ecosystems, native peoples crafted a bounty that fed villages through all four seasons. Skilled hands cultivated sacred crops, hunted and foraged delicacies, and created cooking traditions uniquely adapted to their environments.
Let’s journey through the cornfields of the Iroquois, forests of the Northwest, coastlines of New England, and mesas of the Southwest. We’ll explore the agricultural and hunting foundations of Native cuisine and those ingenious cooking techniques that led to signature dishes from the major regions.
The incredible breadth and richness of Native American foodways has nourished communities for thousands of years. And, near the end of or story, you’ll see the inspiring, modern movement that is now revitalizing ancestral foods and food sovereignty.
The Three Sisters: Corn, Beans, and Squash
From the sweeping cornfields of the Iroquois in the Northeast to the squash-filled plots of the Hopi in the Southwest, the “Three Sisters” of corn, beans, and squash formed the agricultural backbone of Native America.
These sacred crops, first domesticated in Mesoamerica thousands of years ago, slowly spread throughout the Americas, transforming tribes’ diets and cultures.
Corn, that tall-tasseled plant of limitless potential, proved to be a particularly revered crop. “Corn was so important to some tribes that it was considered a gift directly from the Creator,” says Indigenous food historian Joseph Littlefox.
“There are legends of Corn Mothers who breathed life into those first corn plants, their long hair transforming into the leaves and tassels. Tribes as widespread as the Cherokee in the Southeast to the Zuñi in the Southwest incorporated corn into their origin stories.”
The versatilty of corn amazed the early European colonists. “We witnessed the natives creating whole feasts from this maize,” wrote English settler William Bradford in 1620, “roasting it over their fires, boiling it into succotash stews with beans, and grinding it into meal for breads and porridges.”
Beans, that protein-packed legume, also proliferated across Native America, nurtured carefully alongside the corn plants. “The symbiosis between corn and beans was well understood by our ancestors,” says Michael Ducheneaux of the Cheyenne River Sioux Tribe. “Our language even has a name for this: waphople – to grow corn and beans together.”
Squash vines threaded their way between the corn and beans, holding the soil and providing yet another nutritious staple. This trio of crops, grown together and supporting each other, fed generations of Native Americans. “Like any family, the Three Sisters had their small squabbles,” says Littlefox, “but ultimately they grew together in harmony, providing us with a balanced diet from the land.”
This trio of crops, grown together and supporting each other, fed generations of Native Americans. “Like any family, the Three Sisters had their small squabbles,” says Littlefox, “but ultimately they grew together in harmony, providing us with a balanced diet from the land.”
The Bounty of the Hunt: Sacred Gifts of the Forest and Plain
Yet the Three Sisters were not enough to sustain Native tribes on their own. Beyond the planted fields, the forests, rivers, and grasslands held a wealth of wild game – gifts from the Creator that supplemented Native diets with prized meat and hides.
In the Eastern Woodlands roamed majestic herds of bison, providing meat for tribes like the Chickasaw and Choctaw.
Deer darted between the birch and maple trees, hunted by the Mohawk and Menominee. Flocks of wild turkey, ducks, and passenger pigeons took wing through the forests, feeding the Winnebago and Potawatomi.
On the Great Plains, tribes like the Lakota and Cheyenne tracked the thundering bison herds that sustained life. In the Southwest, Navajo hunters sought antelope, elk, and small game. Up and down the Pacific coast, sea mammals like seals, whales, and otters were prized by tribes like the Makah and Salish.
This wild bounty provided more than food – hides for clothing, bones for tools, sinew for cordage. Offerings were made to the spirits of the hunted animals in gratitude. Though agriculture was essential, the gifts of the forests, rivers, and plains were just as vital for Native peoples. The sacred balance between farming and hunting allowed tribes to thrive.
Northeastern Tribes: Foraging a Bounty Among the Forests and Seas
From Maine to Virginia, scores of tribes made their home in the densely forested Northeast region. Tribes like the Iroquois, Huron, and Penobscot became experts at using the natural bounty around them.
“Our homeland provided everything we needed to thrive,” says Molly Neptune Adams, a Passamaquoddy scholar and author.
The woodlands brimmed with wild berries – tart currants, sweet blueberries, wild raspberries, and huckleberries. Stands of maple trees were tapped for their sap, which was boiled into syrup.
“Maple sugar brightened our mornings and livened up our corn mush,” Adams describes. The rivers and seas teemed with salmon, herring, sturgeon, eels, and shellfish.
Game animals like deer, turkey, rabbit and duck were hunted for their prized meat. “After a successful hunt, the whole community celebrated with a feast,” Adams recounts.
Nothing was wasted – the hides became clothing, bones were fashioned into tools, organs eaten. “We learned to follow the cycles of the animals and plants. This wisdom allowed us to survive and thrive.”
Southeastern Tribes: The Bounty of Rivers, Forests, and Game
In the warm river valleys and pine forests of the Southeast, tribes like the Cherokee, Choctaw, and Seminole tended bountiful fields and forageddelicacies from the wilderness.
“The natural abundance of our homeland allowed our communities to prosper,” says Chef Brian Yazzie (Cherokee descent).
The many rivers and swamps overflowed with fish like catfish, bass, and gar. Forest birds like quail, grouse, turkey, and wood pigeon were prized. Deer, opossum, rabbit, bear, bison, and elk meat flavored stews.
Wild orchards offered up persimmons, paw paws, muscadine grapes, blackberries, and plums. Hickory and black walnut trees produced prized oils and flavorful nuts.
Yazzie describes vast fields dotted with the sacred Three Sisters. “We grew corn, beans, squash, sunflowers, and melons using natural farming techniques handed down for generations. Our agricultural bounty allowed time for cultural activities like art, music, and storytelling.”
Southwestern Tribes: Ingenuity in a Parched Landscape
For tribes inhabiting the arid Southwest, from Texas to California, food and water scarcity posed a constant challenge. Tribes like the Navajo, Hopi, Zuñi, and Apache found ingenious solutions, cultivating crops uniquely adapted to the harsh climate.
Dry-farmed varieties of corn, beans, squash, cotton, and tobacco thrived with little rainfall. Stands of drought-hardy agave were harvested for their sweet nectar.
Mesquite trees produced protein-rich beans and fragrant wood for smoking meat. Prickly pear, yucca, oak acorns, pine nuts, and chokecherries provided additional nutrients.
“The Southwest environment demanded that we develop special growing techniques,” says Clayton Ben (Navajo). His people dug deep pits to capture scarce rainwater for irrigation.
The Hopi perfected dry farming on steep terraced slopes. “We became one with the land out of necessity, learning to subsist on the indigenous plants.”
Northwestern Tribes: Abundance of the Rivers and Sea
The coastal forests and rivers of the Pacific Northwest sustained tribes like the Salish, Makah, Tillamook, and Sioux. “The rivers provided us with salmon – a sacred food source,” says Noah Sealth, descendant of the Duwamish Chief Sealth (for whom Seattle is named).
Salmon runs were carefully managed – trapped in weirs for harvesting, but always allowing enough upstream to spawn. Whales, seals, and other sea mammals were hunted from cedar canoes.
Searches of tidal pools yielded clams, mussels, oysters and seaweed. Forests brimmed with elk, deer, rabbit, duck, and foraged delicacies like berries, camas root, and mushrooms.
Masterful cedar plank cooking techniques infused salmon and other foods with aromatic smoky flavor. “Our relationship with the natural abundance around us was one of respect and reciprocity,” says Sealth. “We strove to protect the ancestral gifts of the rivers and forests.”
Revitalizing the Old Ways: Native Food Sovereignty
Centuries of colonization took an immense toll on traditional Native foodways. Ancient agricultural lands were seized, herds hunted to near extinction, sacred sites desecrated.
Government commodity food programs forced reliance on processed, unhealthy imports, leading to epidemics of diabetes and heart disease.
But after decades of oppression, the Native food sovereignty movement is working to regain health and cultural pride by reconnecting with ancestral foods and techniques.
“We are seeing a resurgence of Native foodways, cooking methods, and sustainable agriculture practices,” says Elizabeth Hoover (Mohawk descent), professor of environmental studies.
Young Native chefs like Sean Sherman (Oglala Lakota) have founded restaurants like The Sioux Chef that celebrate pre-colonial ingredients like bison, wild rice, corn, beans, amaranth, and wild mushrooms. Nonprofits like the Indigenous Food and Agriculture Initiative are connecting Native youth with ancestral foods.
The future looks hopeful.”We are nourishing our communities with the sacred foods of our ancestors,” Hoover says. “This work has only just begun.”